Kathmandu, Nepal


Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu, June 2011

Thamel






Kathmandu’s Durbar Square was where the city’s kings were once crowned and legitimised, and from where they ruled (durbar means ‘palace’). As such, the square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture, even though the king no longer lives in the Hunuman Dhoka —the palace was moved north to Narayanhiti about a century ago.




Once a fiercely independent city-state, Patan (pah-tan) is now almost a suburb of Kathmandu, separated only by the murky Bagmati River. Many locals still call the city by its original Sanskrit name, Lalitpur (City of Beauty) or by its Newari name, Yala. Almost everyone who comes to Kathmandu also visits Patan’s spectacular Durbar Square —arguably the finest collection of temples and palaces in the whole of Nepal.




The Swayambhunath (or Monkey Temple) is one of the crowning glories of Kathmandu Valley architecture. This perfectly proportioned monument seems to hint at some celestial perfection with its gleaming, glided spire and white-washed dome.




As with many other towns in the valley, Bhaktapur grew up to service the old trade route from India to Tibet, but the city became a formal entity under King Ananda Malla in the 12th century. The oldest part of townm around Tachupal Tole, was laid down at this time. From the 14th to the 16th century, Bhaktapur became the most powerful of the valley's three Malla kingdoms, and a new civic square was constructed at Durbar Sq in the west of the city.








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Chitwan, Nepal


Chitwan, Nepal
Chitwan National Park, June 2011

There are few experiences that create such a feeling of childlike wonder as helping to bath an elephant. Every day from 11am to noon, the elephants in Sauraha march down to the river near the Hotel River Side for their morning scrub, and everyone turns out to watch the spectacle. If you bring your swimming costume, you can join the fun. There’s no better way of cooling off on a hot day than sitting on the back of a submerged elephant and shouting chhop! —if you get the accent right you’ll be rewarded with a refreshing trunkful of cold water!  







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Pokhara, Nepal


Pokhara, Nepal
Phewa Tal, June 2011

Nowhere better exemplifies Pokhara’s amazing beauty and nature than the majestic Phewa Tal —Nepal’s second largest lake. On calm days, the mountains of the Annapurna Range are perfectly reflected in the mirrored surface of the tal, which makes it the perfect spot to paddle its tranquil waters in a rowboat or kayak.  







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New Delhi, India


New Delhi, India
Dangers and Annoyances, June 2011

First-time visitors especially should be on their guard against Delhi’s touts and tricksters, who are remarkably inventive in their schemes to part tourists from their cash. Touts buzz around tourist honeypots such as Connaught Place, Paharganj and the New Delhi train station. These oh-so-helpful fellows will try to cart you off to shops, travel agencies or ‘official’ tourist offices, where they earn commission at your expense. Be cautious with travel agencies, as many travelers every year report being overcharged and underwhelmed by unscrupulous agents.  






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Agra, India


Agra, India
Taj Mahal, July 2011

Rabindranath Tagore described it as 'a tear-drop on the cheek of eternity'. Rudyard Kipling as 'the embodiment of all things pure', while its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said it made 'the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes'. 

The Taj Mahal was built by Shah Jahan as a memorial for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. The death of Mumtaz left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have turned grey virtually overnight. Construction of the Taj began the same year and, although the main building is thought to have been built in eight years, the whole complex was not completed until 1653. Not long after it was finished Shah Jahan was overthrown by his son Aurangzeb and imprisoned in Agra Fort where, for the rest of his days, he could only gaze out at his creation through a window. Following his death in 1666, Shah Jahan was buried here alongside Mumtaz. 






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Jaipur, India


Jaipur, India
Pink City, July 2011

The old city is partially encircled by a crenellated wall punctuated by gates (pols) including the mayor gates of Chandpol, Ajmer and Sanganeri. It may not feel like it in today's chaotic mechanised traffic, but the Old City is a masterpiece of town planning. Wide avenues divide the city into neat rectangles, each one specialising in different crafts. 
Jaipur's most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) is a remarkable, five-storey, delicately honeycombed, pink sandstone structure. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. It's an amazing example of Rajput artistry, and remains a great place for people-watching from behind the small shutters. 






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Hindustan-Pakistan Border


Attari/Wagah, India
India-Pakistan Border, July 2011

Every late afternoon, just before sunset, members of the Indian and Pakistani military meet at the border to engage in a 30-minute display of pure theatre. The flag-lowering, closing-of-the-border ceremony is a fusion of orderly colonial-style pomp, comical goose-stepping and, considering the two countries' rocky relationship, stunning demonstration of harmony. So popular is this event, that grandstands have been specially constructed to accommodate the patriotic throngs. 








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Amritsar, India


Amritsar, India
The Golden Temple, July 2011

Founded in 1577 by the fourth guru Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism's holiest shrine, the spectacular Golden Temple. During unrest in Punjab in the early 1980s, the Golden Temple was occupied by separatists seeking to create an independent Sikh homeland. They were flushed out by the army in 1984 in a controversial military action that damaged the temple and fuelled violent Sikh-Hindu clashes in Punjab and beyond that left thousands (predominantly Sikhs) dead. 





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Golden Temple


Amritsar, India
The Golden Temple, July 2011





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Golden Temple II

Amritsar, India
The Golden Temple, July 2011






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